| Tips and Tricks Provided by Contributing Editor L.P. Brezny |
1. When cleaning rifle cases make up a solution that contains one part All Out Extra. This is an over-the-counter home use lime, rust, and calcium remover. Add to two parts water, and make up about a pint at a time. This solution can be saved in a glass jar for future use. Simply drop cases into the solution and allow to stand overnight. When removed, rinse off in hot water and dry in an oven at 180 degrees. Cases will be bright and clean, including primer pockets, regardless of how old. 2. At times dies and general reloading tools can build up lubrication grit and sludge. A great cleaner is simple and low cost Liquid Wrench. Being nonflammable, this cleaner/lubricant leaves metal parts clean and bright with a very light lubricating film. When used on automatic firearms the results are, in effect, a gunsmith in a can if taken afield. Flush actions, gas cylinders, and even bore gas ports with this solution for very fast acting cleansing action. I have watched Texas salt marsh goose guides flush a complete firearm in this cleaner each night after field use. It works well even in salt water areas, and is a closely held secret among many industry pros. 3. Weighing shotshell payloads by hand. Often varmint hunters who use a shotgun are working with very specialized handloads that are not typically found in basic field or target load references. When loading a few special loads for fox or coyote I often use an old gram weight balance scale to weigh the shot, then use a gram-to-ounce conversion chart for payloads of shot. This is accurate and very simple. Old gram weight drug store-type balance scales can be acquired from second hand stores, junk shops, and even bought new through a druggist supply company. My scale is used all the time for Hevi-Shot and lead buckshot size special coyote loads, special subsonic (Metro Gun) night shooting fox loads, and low recoiling bird loads that are used inside silos, and other grain storage containers when cleaning out pigeons. (Commercial bird and animal elimination control.) 4. Just as in using the gram weight scale for shot charging, the use of a rifle powder measure and grain weight powder scale is also advantageous when developing small numbers of special shotshell loads. I often use the Redding or RCBS powder measure when developing everything from one of a kind sub sound urban varmint ammo, to special 3.5 12 gauge heavy coyote loads. This saves the need to set up charging bars on the reloading press ... that is if the loads even exist in the reloading manuals with accompanying charging bars. 5. When loading subcaliber cartridges like the 17 Remington, 204 Ruger, 19 Badger, or 20 Tactical, using fine grain ball powders allows a smooth, even flow. Stick type powders, on the other hand, can produce case neck hang-ups in the drop tube during reloading. Winchester ball powders, and Ramshot powders, to name a couple, fit this category as "easy to use" small caliber propellant choices. 6. When handloading, keep the powder container directly behind the powder measure, or at least in a special location so you don't mix up your powders when you decide to change loads. This is easy to do when your wife calls you up for dinner, or you are called away for an extended period of time. Because many current powders tend to take on the same general appearance, visual identification can be a problem. I know, because it has happened to me a time or two in years past. |
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